Monday, September 22, 2014

Fun facts and figures

Whilst whiling away the scintillating hours spent in transit at the coming airports I thought I would compile some stats
For starters I am 4 hours early at Seattle Tacoma International but they have free WiFi.
Distance:14305 Mi23022 Km
Fuel:659.86 Gallon(US)2497 Liters
Avg Distance per day

I found a useful tool a while ago that gets around the flat Mercator projection distortion that makes Canada look ridiculously large and Greenland as big as Australia. Whilst the 2nd largest nation on earth, Canada is not as large as these maps suggest. I put in the basic outline of the drive which can be seen here: or in the comparison below.
Rough drive outline

Over laid on Australia
It would be good to invert the latitudes and normalise them to the southern hemisphere but then the map would only show a lot of blue and white - white being the generic colour used in Google maps for Antarctica. It still amazes me how far "north" Canada and the USA are in comparison to Australia and any large land masses in the southern hemisphere.


Last days in Oregon and Washington State

The drive across from Boise, Idaho to Washington was really scenic. The country side reminded me of the area around the Wurrumbungles, NSW. The whole west coast is experiencing a dry spell and it looks it with brown grass and tinder dry forest. I drove into the mountains west of Bend, Oregon and stayed the night in a rest area in Oakridge. Next day was a big drive through varied types of forest and National Park to the Columbia Gorge. On the way was spectacular volcanic mountains that form part of the Cascade Mountain range. It was raining slightly but I was told by locals that the rain was a good thing - this in a part of the North America which has the highest suicide rate in the country mainly put down to the inclement weather. Last time I came through here they had late falls of snow with a low cloud base so I didn't get to see much and a lot of the roads were closed. I was determined to see Mount Hood so parked in the car park at the Timberline Resort reading a book hoping the clouds would clear up.
Mt Hood from the south
2 hours later the clouds parted so I could see the summit. I was above the cloud layer so the view was quite good of the surrounds but not good enough to take pictures.

After this I drove to the town of Hood River on the Columbia Gorge doing the usual stupid deer dodge. They are more suicidal than kangaroos and at least as stupid. This place is awesome
Colombia River and Gorge
The weather was great with only small clouds in a blue sky

Mt Hood from Hood River town

Mt Adams

Mount St Helens

I was surprised that the forest around Mt St Helens had not recovered as much as what I thought it would. I don't think the trees here handle fire and complete devastation as well as Eucalypts - it has been 34 years and there are still a lot of bare areas. This was a great day driving through forest with excellent weather. I ended up at Mt Rainier although the peak was covered with cloud. I waited on the south side called Paradise Valley for the cloud to clear but it didn't and only gave quick views of the summit.

That's fine because the next day was cloudless. I stayed in a Rest Area on the South west side of the park. It was fenced in with barbed wire topped cyclone fencing and I imagine this was to keep the bears out. I did not want to get mauled on the last night in the car so felt safer here than in the National Park camp grounds

Sunrise, Mt Rainier
The drive up to the north side of Mt Rainier was spectacular. I was a little pissed at paying the park fee the day before when a lot of the south side roads were closed and the pit toilets absolutely reeked but this made up for it. The road ends at a place called Sunrise and it is truly awesome
I drove back out through Chinook pass then wasted about an hour and a half trying to get through a national forest to make a short cut. It looked good on the map! The road was one of those that steadily gets worse and worse going from a nice 2 lane tar surface and ending up in a rutted 4wd path at the top of a pass and a fireplace over looking the valley. I am sure I could have got through in the Defender to the next valley and National Forest but didn't want to risk any scratches or damage on the Jeep. At least it was scenic... After retreating back down the valley the GPS kept telling me to back track back past Mt Rainier to Seattle but I hate that and so went north East to meet up with the I90 which enters Seattle through the Snoqualmie pass which is enormous and worth the drive. This part of Washington now looks like Nevada - last time whilst not "Lush" it was at least green and semi arable.
That pretty much ended up driving the car inter city for me.

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Idaho

In Boise, Idaho tonight.

It took me about 7hrs to drive 120Miles... Idaho is really rugged. Hopefully I will get some time to up load some GPS files in the morning. I lost an hour with the change to mountain time

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Catch-up and Skagway

Coal Train at Torrington, Wyoming - 5 engines up front and 2 pushers! My guess is these would be from the Powder River Basin :)






I hung around the "Golden Triangle" for an extra day and then drove to Skagway, Alaska from Haines Junction, Yukon. Each time across the border is a time zone change so it is confusing. I am also a little sick and tired of customs staff asking "Where did you come from today" when it has to be the most obvious question they could possibly ask someone driving out of what is basically a  cul-de-sac. The drive was awesome and it was only a little cloudy. Skagway is about the same size as Haines, Alaska but is lot more tourist orientated. There were 4 large cruise ships and one small but expensive looking one in port so the strrets were full of window grazers. The airport was were I thought it would be and I drove straight there, went to the front counter and asked how to book a scenic flight. The staff were so helpful and called one of the operators who was landing from a scenic flight in 15-20 minutes and taking off in 25. Within 25 minutes of arriving I was on the runway taxing!
The flight goes South West out over Haines and to Glacier Bay were we circled around.





Very scenic! On the way back I was thinking it would maybe worth a hike around Haines but then we spotted about 10 bears and I decided it was not worth it.


Skagway






Even the drive out was awesome. I staid the night in a Rest Area on the Alskan Highway with about 3 trucks, 2 RV's and a caravan.

Next day was a big drive down to Stewart, BC which borders the last bit of the Alaskan pan handle. This drive was made up of huge valleys and really, really long beautiful lakes almost the whole way. The peaks were often snow covered, coming down to pine forests ending in crystal blue lakes. One of them is formed by the Yukon river and is the longest distance up river traveled by Salmon to spawn. An incredible journey.

I will need more time to make a new post as the Salmon Glacier was close by Stewart and this blew me away. Tonight I am staying in a relatively seedy hotel in Prince Rupert, BC after another awesome drive which is at the end of the Skeena river Valley.


Saturday, September 6, 2014

North West

In Haines, Alaska tonight.
I looked at the weather forecast and decided to gamble on a scenic flight over Denali and so booked it online and then drove down to Talkeetna.
Alaska I have now found out is 1/5th the size of the lower 49 states. This makes the seemingly short drives shown on the comic book style maps from the tourist centers quiet a lot longer than they seem. It rained most of the drive with a fairly low cloud base obscuring the mountain ranges that I should have seen.
Next day I woke up and it was completely fogged out but I still drove the 20km's to the airport and it was actually sunny. The flight was on!
Mt McKinley is the highest peak in North America
The flight included landing on one of the glaciers
Alpha Team going in!



Delta Team touching down

The flight was awesome. I think the afternoon flights were cancelled due to the bad conditions so it really was lucky. I finally got a decent coffee in North America. Talkeetna is a bit of a hippy place and the local bakery - Flying Squirrel Cafe actually had decent beans and someone who knew how to operate the machine! Amazing.
The road south took me through Wasilla.

Parked out front I had this nagging feeling someone in a stars and stripes bikini was drawing a bead on my forehead with a high powered rifle but that may have been a passing fantasy.
Anchorage was completely forgettable but the road to Homer followed the waterline and was basically mountains going into the sea.

looking across Cook inlet
 Unfortunately the weather in Haines is too wet and windy to fly today or the next few days. Very disappointed as this is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been


Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Big Update II

This post seemed to get stuck in draft mode somehow:

The weather has been great... up till now so I am holed up in the mining town of Butte, Montana hoping for no clouds.
Yellowstone was pretty good though not really my thing. I went in the East exit, Drove out and back in the South exit and then exited the North East exit. To be honest the best sights are from the exits as they all contain huge canyons draining the uplift. The super volcano is really to big to see from the ground.
People stopping, blocking the whole road to take pictures of Bison gets old really fast so I used the horn a lot to get out.

Old Faithful

The drive out of Yellowstone was a bit of an anti climax with solid cloud blocking all views



 Had some real issues with my cash. There are 3 Bank of America atms/branches in Colorado, None In Wyoming or Montana it seems. The 3 in Colorado are all in within a few kilometers of each other  in Denver which is really helpful. Thanks for that. So I had to get raped in Fort Collins and hit up a local atm after driving around wasting time.
I wasn't going to do it but I ended up heading north through Wyoming to Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse.... there is a lot of work to do on Crazy Horse to fulfill the vision.


 Wyoming is utterly fantastic to drive through off the interstates. The road passes some of the main energy arteries for the US - huge coal trains traveling to destinations across the country. After the flat horizons of the great plains and mid west its a relief on the eyes to see some topography. These are photos from the SAC museum in Nebraska


Foyer of the SAC museum
Hanger I

"Back lot"



Avro Hawker Vulcan

I had to ask around to get the location of the secret door marked "Do not open. Alarm will sound!" from the young guy to get to see the back lot. The old grouchy guy who sold me a full price ticket with 40 minutes to closing time did not seem too want to tell me.

Monday, September 1, 2014

Fun in Alaska

I didn't end up finding a hotel in North pole. I found a 24HR truckie stop and called it quits for the night. Breakfast was good at the Hilltop Truck Stop and I got back in the car with the intention of driving as far along the road as I could get. I was not sure if it was open to the public as the Jeeps GPS kept saying the route contained "restricted access" roads - whatever that means . It is about a 1500km return trip along the Dalton Highway which was built along with the pipeline to bring Oil back from the the Alaska North slope and Prudhoe Bay. It is often spectacular but mainly a winding dirt road with big trucks moving large items.





I was exceptionally lucky on the way in as I had sunshine all day.



This did not last. I did not expect much at the end of the road except large oil production facilities and that is what I found. There is an amazing array of equipment which all has had to traverse the highway to get there. I was seeing it in mid summer and it was cold and bleak.


The next day it was very cold and windy. The nice snowy mountain pass was now a blizzard which turned to sleet and rain later up the road so I only stopped once and that was for fuel and crappy coffee at Coldfoot - and this photo taken by Arctic Circle Lady near where the highway crosses the Yukon river.
it is raining steadily
I think she was from the local tourist association as she also gave me a certificate. Hopefully the bad weather does not hang around for too long. I think I have been exceptionally lucky so far so I hope it holds.